For years now we have threatened to visit the Baviannskloof. In fact we have even gone as far as entertaining the idea of cycling the Trans Baviaans!! Finally after 20 years of living in the Garden Route we ventured into this paradise and experienced the magic of the mountains, passes and landscape.
For those that don’t know : the Baviaans is located in the Eastern Cape Province of South Africa. The area covers 200 square kilometers of rugged terrain. Included is the World Heritage Site of Baviaanskloof and the Karoo towns of Steytlerville, Willowmore, Rietbron, and Groot Rivier. It is nestled between two parallel mountain ranges – the Kouga to the South and the Baviaanskloof to the North. In the valley two rivers, the Baviaans and the Kouga, merge with the Grootrivier to form the Gamtoos River.
We planned our trip travelling East to West, entering the reserve from the Patensie side and exiting at Nuwekloof Pass. We left Plettenberg Bay at 6 in the morning to get to the entrance of the Baviaanskloof Nature Reserve early. In retrospect it would have been better to leave a little later and stay the first night closer to the reserve as we only arrived at the gate just after 9! That was probably due to indulging in a much called for toastie and cappuccino at Tolbos Coffee Shop. Armed with Wedgewood Strawberry Nougat and a couple of other goodies from their shop we embarked on our journey. The next 40km took us through citrus farms before arrival at the gate.
To transverse the 3 passes : Combrink se Berg Pass, Holgat Pass and the Grasnek Pass – you will need a 4×4. They are breathtakingly beautiful. However, should you suffer from vertigo make sure you are in the seat of the vehicle furthest from the edge. We didn’t meet an oncoming car but the thought of reversing back did conjure up some mixed feelings. I felt comfort in the fact that I wasn’t the driver. Our progress was slow as the Blew Birding Club swung into action. There were sightings of the Dusky Indigobird, Malachite Kingfisher, Orange-breasted Sunbird and Verreaux’s Eagle, to name just a few. Bushbuck were plentiful and we spotted a Klipspringer standing guard on top of rocky outcrop. We were also lucky enough to get a great view of a Mountain Reedbuck.
We exited the reserve 8 hours later and arrived at our first stop – Zandvlakte Guest Farm. The farm has beautiful gardens, but the accommodation is a little tired. If you suffer from arachnophobia or allergies it’s probably not the right place for you!!! The pool area was particularly welcoming, and we cooled off with a couple of G and T’s in hand whilst making friends with some of the furry residents.
Our next stop at the Makkedaat Cavees was a further 80km. We meandered slowly along the gravel road and got to the BaviJAANS Padstal in time for the usual 10.00 am cappuccino and toastie. This gorgeous Padstal is a little paradise in the middle of nowhere where you can indulge in a great breakfast. Whilst in pursuit of a Cape Rock Thrush we got a glimpse of their self-catering units and cottages – certainly worth a visit on our next trip.
Hiking is highly recommended and a walk under the shade of the Wild Fig Forest looked like a must. Information available explained it as a “trail along the Baviaans River taking about 2 hours”. A loud braying donkey gave away our arrival and out of nowhere Patrick appeared. He hopped on the side of the vehicle and advised us that he was our guide for the Tour of the Wild Fig Forest. We got all our gear together ready for a long hike…… we still not entirely sure if we were perhaps in the wrong place because the hike consisted of 300 odd meters along a boardwalk. Needless to say, the Wild Figs are magnificent and the entire experience of Fig Trees, a boardwalk and an enthusiastic guide made it worthwhile.
Our arrival at Makkedaat Caves was met with the warmest welcome from Henriette Terblanche who oozes hospitality and passion. Our home for the night was Dawid se Bak. Cave accommodation under a natural rock overhang that is unique, clean as a whistle and a great experience. The cave located close to the hiking route can accommodate 6 people. The westerly afternoon sun makes it hot in summer. However, as night falls, and the fire for the braai is lit, there is no better experience. The breathtakingly beautiful rocky outcrops were lit up by the full moon and the valley was illuminated with surreal colours.
Dyl and I were up early for a hike on the plateau. I guess we were secretly hoping that we would spot the “much sought after” wild donkeys. The hiking path is close to Dawid se Bak and proved slightly more taxing than first anticipated. It was with great relief to arrive at the top. We followed the trail for about 30 minutes before turning back and opting for an alternative route down. Bad mistake – choose routes carefully as this trail would give any black slope in Europe a run for its money!!
Our route back home took us through Uniondale and over the Prince Alfred’s Pass. We have been on this route on a couple of occasions and I can confess that it is more enjoyable in a car than on a bike in the Karoo to Coast Cycle Race!! Now that we have an inkling of what to expect we will be back to experience more of the Baviaanskloof.
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