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How about Val d’Isère as your next exciting skiing adventure?

When travelling from South Africa there are countless choices of skiing destinations all over Europe. But perhaps though the most important question to ask is “are we guaranteed of snow?”. That’s one of the main reasons we chose Val d’Isère – it’s one of the highest skiing destinations. The majority of good slopes are at high altitude and more importantly it caters for less gifted skiers (like me). At night the village comes alive, music pumps and the food is great. We’ve been there twice and loved it!

How we got to Val d’Isère (and back)!

Val d’Isere is nestled in the Tarentaise valley of the Rhône-Alpes region with the Italian border only 5km away. We flew into Geneva and then boarded Ben’s Bus which delivers you into the centre of the village. It was a bit of a bun fight as we forced our rather large suitcases into whatever space was available and then elbowed our way to available seats. The buses are busy and in high demand. Needless to say, the excited chatter of youngsters set the stage for a great vibe. We would suggest getting onto the bus leaving no later than 3.00 in the afternoon. The trip is relatively long and can take between 3 and 4 hours. You don’t want to get to your destination in the middle of the night and then haul your luggage in sub-zero conditions over slippery roads to your accommodation.

At the end of our stay we opted for the more sedentary route and booked the trip back with 3Valley-transfers. They were well priced and reliable. The driver was good and the vehicle clean and in good condition. All in all a very professional company. Both Ben’s Bus and 3Valley-transfers can be booked easily on the internet.

Where to stay?

On a previous trip to Val d’Isère we stayed at the Val d’Isère Club Med and loved it. It makes life easy when equipment is provided and all food, drinks and entertainment are included. Its location also allows for ski-in, ski-out which is a real advantage. A glass of delicious Glühwein after a hard morning or afternoon on the slopes was also very welcome.

This time round, we opted for a self-catering apartment booked through We-Ski. They are a professional company offering quality accommodation. The apartment – Résidence Kilimanjaro – is a new duplex situated within walking distance to the village. Not too far when you fresh in the morning but a little more testing after a long day on the slopes. Staying in the apartment meant we got to know the village, the restaurants and enjoyed a wide range of après-ski options.

Where to hire Ski Equipment?

There are obviously a number of different options when it comes to ski hire. We were very happy with Ski Republic -conveniently situated at Val Village, Le Front de Neige.

The Val d’Isère Ski Area

The L’Espace Killy is home to 300 km of pistes and shared by Val d’Isère and Tignes. Val d’Isère’s share of it (150km) has three ski areas two of which can be accessed directly from the centre of town – Solaise and Bellevarde. As a skier devoid of much talent I tended to stick on the easier slopes. One is in the village itself. The other is a relatively new one at the top of the Solaise gondola. There are however numerous runs to progress to. Beware though – the more daunting terrain is at the bottom of the mountain. It’s therefore a good idea – as a beginner – to catch a ride back down on one of the gondalas. That is of course after perfecting a few skills on the easier and more “gentle” slopes.

The third area – Fornet – can be reached from the valley at Le Fornet and Le Laisinant. Alternatively you can get there via Solaise using a lift that tests any vertigo disposition.

Val d’Isère’s après-ski

Val d’Isère is certainly not short on après-ski options.

Perhaps the most well known of all is Folie Douce at the top of the La Daille gondola. Live bands, DJs and cabaret provide a party vibe from 3-5pm daily. Coroico, at the bottom of Solaise, is as good. We were entertained by different bands every night giving exceptional, energetic performances.

Our other regular haunts included Le Petit Danois – a lively bar with different bands. For lunch we became regulars at Crêperie Bar ô rendez-vous – soup of the day and a pancake well recommended.

If a treat is what you are after, the La Casserole is exceptional. You may have to ski harder the next day to work off all the calories consumed in one serving of a delicious raclette.

Have a look at the various options and most importantly have a blast! P.S. If you a snowboarder it doesn’t necessarily mean you are a skier – ask Ben !!

28 August 2023

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A “Non-Official” Guide to the Spectacular Kgalagadi

Outlines of gemsbok silhouetted against a vast skyline. Red dunes where the wind blown sand transforms into ever changing patterns. Long dirt roads adjacent to the open dry river beds of the Nossob and Auob. Premium sightings of cheetah, lion and birds of prey. A desert paradise that you will fall in love with and keep returning to – that’s the Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park.

Wildlife in Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park

Before planning and embarking on a “first trip” to the beautiful Kgalagadi make sure you read a few blog articles but in the meantime keep reading:

Handy Tips

The Kgalagadi falls under Sanparks and has a variety of accommodation options. Throughout the year many of these options are fully booked. As a result, you need to plan a trip to this area a year in advance.
VERY important – lose at least 4 kgs before visiting the park. Indulging in large quantities of condensed milk, biltong, chips, red wine, chocolate, etc will have consequences.
Purchase a good bottle of tequila to warm the cockles of the heart.
Take along a bird book to help with identification. Alternatively, invest in the Roberts Bird Guide App but make sure your phone is charged. You may even want to consider going on a birding course to identify predator birds. They are seriously confusing to amateur birders.

Preparing for a trip to the Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park

Temperatures drop to -10 degrees, or lower, in the Kgalagadi in the winter months. Ensure you have a beanie to sleep with at night to avoid brain freeze. Furthermore, gloves help to avoid losing fingers whilst pouring a cup of coffee.
Bring your own blanket – it comes in handy for the early morning drives.
Many camps run on solar power so there is no chance of charging anything. If you having a bad hair day you unfortunately won’t be able to haul out the trusty hairdryer, never mind charge a camera battery. Consider taking along a power bank as back-up.
Don’t always bank on using a credit card machine – it is remote in the Kgalagadi. In other words make sure you have cash as a back-up.
Put water in the kettle the night before in case everything freezes, including your fingers and nose.

Be nervous – the weavers are in force at the picnic sites. They give the monkeys in Kruger a run for their money.
Always think ahead – petrol can be on short supply and the shops may not have had their delivery of stock. We were limited to 20 litres of petrol and one tin of condensed milk at Nossob – scary stuff!!
Check there is sufficient gas in the tanks at your wilderness camp as you may have to man up for an early morning ice cold shower.
Remember – where there is no river there are no animals. However, the scenery never fails to disappoint.
Avoid visiting the park in August if you can. At the end of July we were starting to experience the winds that drive most things to the ground.
The most sought after accommodation is without a doubt the Kgalagadi wilderness camps. We have stayed in 4 of them – the Kalahari Tented Camp, Grootkolk, Gharagab and Klein Krankie. It is well worth the effort of getting up at 4.00 in the morning and checking for new cancellations and availability online.

Khalahari Tented Camp

Kalahari Tented Camp - Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park

Our “desert tent” had a great view of the dry Auob River bed where wilderbeest and springbok grazed and Bat Eared Foxes foraged for food. The bedroom was roomie with two single beds, a wooden floor and tent walls. The shower was great and kitchen, which is separate to the bedroom, operates beautifully with a gas oven and fridge. Whilst getting ready for the inevitable evening braai we only had to deal with a desperate drongo intent on getting a bit of cheese.
Note the following:
Mata Mata has limited wifi otherwise there is no reception at the camp.
You will need to supply your own firewood and drinking water.
There is no fuel and no shop – the closest facilities are at Mata-Mata where the shop is limited in fresh produce. If you arrive there early make sure you order the brood – well worth it!!!

Grootvolk

Grootkolk Wilderness Camp - Kgalagadi Transfrontier Camp

It is a long day cutting across from the Auob River to the Nossob River so it may be advisable to try and get a night at Nossob Rest Camp before heading north to Grootvolk – another two hour drive. Grootvolk is 20 km from Union’s End where South Africa, Botswana and Namibia meet. The road from Nossob to Grootvolk can be a bit sunken down from time to time making game viewing a little difficult. However, every time you come out of a dip beautiful landscapes and busy waterholes reward you.

Grootkolk can only be described as a piece of heaven on earth. The cottages are spotless with an abundance of birds flitting in the trees. The waterhole is right in front of the 4 cottages. Each chalet has 2 single beds, a ceiling fan and en-suite bathroom. The kitchen is on the veranda and there is gas for cooking and solar energy for lights.

Gharagab

Gharagab overlooks a floodlit waterhole. The road in and out is devoid of much game but it’s a great one way circular trip where one can practice a couple of 4 x 4 skills. The view of the waterhole from each chalet is insane. Certainly, for us, one of the best. Each chalet has two single beds, a well equipped kitchen, en-suite shower and braai on the deck. The night temperatures drop well below zero and we had to put on every conceivable warm piece of clothing as the wind whistled through cracks and holes in the hut.

Kielie Kranke

Spend one night at Kiele Krankie just for the view of the dunes. The camp is situated 50 km from Twee Rivieren on the Southern Dune Road. The closest shop and fuel supply is at Twee Rivieren. There are 5 units at Kieliekrankie each well equipped, functional, clean and in good condition. The deck area has a braai and a view of the small waterhole below it.

For more information on visiting the park for the first time you may want to read these blog articles:

Getaway

Travel for Wildlife

30 May 2022

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Baviaanskloof – experiencing the magic for the first time!

For years now we have threatened to visit the Baviannskloof. In fact we have even gone as far as entertaining the idea of cycling the Trans Baviaans!! Finally after 20 years of living in the Garden Route we ventured into this paradise and experienced the magic of the mountains, passes and landscape. Keep reading!

6 February 2022

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Majete Game Reserve – An Unforgettable Experience

Majete Game Reserve was the first park to fall under the management of Africa Parks in 2003. Situated in the south western part of Malawi the park was a wasteland with very little game, no tourists and no perceived value. Since 2003 rhino, elephant, lion, giraffe, cheetah, wild dog and various antelope have been introduced. It is in this reserve that Dylan has spent the last year learning something new every day. He has been involved in rescuing Tenminck’s Pangolins, re-introducing African Wild Dogs, catching and relocating crocodiles, releasing giraffe, darting and replacing collars – the list goes on! He has even got as far as running his first 21km in support of the unsung heroes of the bush – the African Parks Rangers. Keep reading!

5 January 2022

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Liwonde – A Birder’s Paradise

Liwonde National Park is situated alongside the Shire River and forms part of Lake Malombe. In 2015 African Parks, in partnership with the Department of National Parks and Wildlife (DNPW), took over the management of Liwonde. At the time the park was on the verge of collapse with a high density of wire snares and extreme levels of human – wildlife conflict. In six years African Parks has transformed Liwonde into a national treasure. It now boasts a wide variety of game and has become a birder’s paradise.

Once through the park gates Chifundu met us and transferred us across the Shire River by boat to Mvu Lodge. Two decks enable magnificent views of the Shire River. Hippo munch on water hyacinths and waterbuck rest under the shade of nearby trees. Crocodiles camouflaged as logs lie silently amongst African Jacana. The continual chorus of birds set the scene of one Africa’s most beautiful parks.

Our first outing was on a boat going south down the Shire River. One LIFO after another left us breathless and in awe of their beauty. Our guide Chifundo’s insane knowledge of the bird life made us look like amateurs. We sipped an evening “green” whilst taking in the Pied Kingfisher’s last fishing attempt. Grey headed gulls and cormorants dominated the sky as they headed back to roost. Pink backed Pelicans foraged amongst yellow billed storks. Waterbuck and elephant graced the shores of the river whilst hippo and crocodiles lay submerged in the water.

Our next two days took us North and South of Mvu on a game vehicle. The roads are in good condition and although the landscape is dry, the mopani woodlands, interspersed with Candelabra trees, were both impressive and beautiful. Palm Savannah and Baobabs dominate the floodplains of the Shire River where an abundance of different species of game graze. Sightings of serval, porcupine, the elusive Narina Trojan and many other species of birds enthralled us.

On our last day we opted for another boat safari and headed out North towards Lake Malombe. An elephant herd drinking on the river side and pods of hippos grunting in the water complimented sightings of an Allen’s Gallinule, a Rufous-bellied Heron and a Fulvous Whistling Duck.

Accommodation

We stayed at Mvu Lodge which comprises of 8 tented rooms. The rooms are large with a deck overlooking the river. Each room has a large tastefully decorated bathroom with the option of an outdoor shower. At night the sounds from the river infiltrate the tent. To be woken one night by the call and sighting of the Pel’s Fishing Owl was the cherry on top of the cake.

Facilities

As usual the Blew family are never shy with a knife and fork. Beautifully presented meals were served on the lounge deck each day. The swimming pool is beautifully situated under fever trees that give valuable shade. For those hoping to work off each meal intake there is a yoga / exercise deck is nearby with an incredible view of the river.

If you are a game park fanatic then Liwonde should be on your bucket list.

Photo creds to @dylanblew

26 November 2021

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Mumbo Island – A Little Jewel in Lake Malawi

If you want to experience a small piece of paradise then Mumbo Island needs to be on your bucket list. It lies 10kms offshore from Cape Maclear in the southern region of Lake Malawi and is approximately one square kilometre in size. In 1980 it was incorporated into the Lake Malawi National Park and Kayak Africa were awarded the concession in 1996. It is unspoilt, incredibly beautiful and guarantees privacy with a maximum of 14 people at any one time.

The trip to Cape Maclear from Blantyre was a good four and a half hours along busy roads. Regular occurrences of potholes and road shoulder erosion made overtaking tricky. Motorbike taxis, carrying one to two passengers, hug the edge of the road and no-one wears a helmet. The route took us through densely populated areas where village after village merge into each other. Locals sell their merchandise – be it clothing or fresh produce – alongside the road. Shops advertise a variety of services using extremely creative English names like “Bellyful Restaurant” and “Never Give Up Liquor Store”. The final part of the journey is on a very poor road that is half tar, half dirt so we were thankful that we were in the safe hands of our driver – Masa.

We celebrated our arrival at Kayak Africa on the shores of Lake Malawi with an ice-cold Green before catching the boat across to Mumbo Island. A word of advice – don’t be tempted to dip your toes into the water on the shore as you are bound to end up with bilharzia. Rather jump aboard and make use of one of the many umbrellas to keep the sun’s rays at bay. The boat trip took about 45 minutes before we got our first glimpse of this exceptional little island. We were given a super friendly welcome by Douglas, Patrick and Ashim. Under the guidance of Nora theywent out of their way to make sure our stay was extra special.

Accommodation

Home for the next three days was in a beautiful reed chalet perched high on a boulder overlooking the water. All five reed chalets are situated on their own private boulder on the tiny islet of “Jumbo”. A wooden bridge spans the water between the islet and Mumbo Island’s main beach. All chalets have a rustic charm and are built of reeds, timber, thatch and canvas. Mozi nets, made of a combination of netting and colourful Malawian fabric, add to the ambiance of the rooms. A hammock is available on each deck should you feel like an afternoon snooze. The “en-suite” bathrooms are reached by a wooden walkway. Each is equipped with a dry-composter toilet (long-drop) and bucket shower. You will need to give about 20 minutes notice before showering as the staff must heat up the water and bring it to you. The dining area, lounge and forest chalet are set back from the beach and blend seamlessly into the forest. Don’t bother taking a hairdryer as all electricity is solar powered.

Food

The food was plentiful and beautifully cooked by Patrick. All thoughts of eating mindfully whilst on holiday in Malawi were forgotten as we fought over the fresh rolls, apple crumpets, pancakes and freshly caught chambo – to name just a few. We never ran out of ice-cold Greens and Chills and never managed to miss afternoon tea and cake either!!

Activities

The water is beautiful, warm and clear so snorkeling is a must. We kayaked around the island each day with a bit of snorkeling along the way. The loungers on the beach are the perfect place to do a bit of sun tanning and reading. Nora is a brilliant masseur so I couldn’t resist indulging in an hour of blissful relaxation. We were not there long enough to indulge in diving. We did however get to meet Rob Assad who runs Cape Maclear SCUBA – something we will do when we return. The walks around the island meander through forests and boulders and are clearly signposted so there is no chance of getting lost. Sundowners on Pod Rock are a must.