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Liwonde – A Birder’s Paradise

Liwonde National Park is situated alongside the Shire River and forms part of Lake Malombe. In 2015 African Parks, in partnership with the Department of National Parks and Wildlife (DNPW), took over the management of Liwonde. At the time the park was on the verge of collapse with a high density of wire snares and extreme levels of human – wildlife conflict. In six years African Parks has transformed Liwonde into a national treasure. It now boasts a wide variety of game and has become a birder’s paradise.

Once through the park gates Chifundu met us and transferred us across the Shire River by boat to Mvu Lodge. Two decks enable magnificent views of the Shire River. Hippo munch on water hyacinths and waterbuck rest under the shade of nearby trees. Crocodiles camouflaged as logs lie silently amongst African Jacana. The continual chorus of birds set the scene of one Africa’s most beautiful parks.

Our first outing was on a boat going south down the Shire River. One LIFO after another left us breathless and in awe of their beauty. Our guide Chifundo’s insane knowledge of the bird life made us look like amateurs. We sipped an evening “green” whilst taking in the Pied Kingfisher’s last fishing attempt. Grey headed gulls and cormorants dominated the sky as they headed back to roost. Pink backed Pelicans foraged amongst yellow billed storks. Waterbuck and elephant graced the shores of the river whilst hippo and crocodiles lay submerged in the water.

Our next two days took us North and South of Mvu on a game vehicle. The roads are in good condition and although the landscape is dry, the mopani woodlands, interspersed with Candelabra trees, were both impressive and beautiful. Palm Savannah and Baobabs dominate the floodplains of the Shire River where an abundance of different species of game graze. Sightings of serval, porcupine, the elusive Narina Trojan and many other species of birds enthralled us.

On our last day we opted for another boat safari and headed out North towards Lake Malombe. An elephant herd drinking on the river side and pods of hippos grunting in the water complimented sightings of an Allen’s Gallinule, a Rufous-bellied Heron and a Fulvous Whistling Duck.

Accommodation

We stayed at Mvu Lodge which comprises of 8 tented rooms. The rooms are large with a deck overlooking the river. Each room has a large tastefully decorated bathroom with the option of an outdoor shower. At night the sounds from the river infiltrate the tent. To be woken one night by the call and sighting of the Pel’s Fishing Owl was the cherry on top of the cake.

Facilities

As usual the Blew family are never shy with a knife and fork. Beautifully presented meals were served on the lounge deck each day. The swimming pool is beautifully situated under fever trees that give valuable shade. For those hoping to work off each meal intake there is a yoga / exercise deck is nearby with an incredible view of the river.